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Next, the end pin is reamed. I use the same 30 to 1 taper reamer as for the tuning pegs. As this hole was formerly reamed to just under size, only take a tiny amount at a time until the end pin shoulder will just come in contact against the rib surface with a firm twisting motion (that is a snug fit). If you make the hole slightly too large, cut a slip of paper so that it not quite wraps around the end pin and insert it first into the reamed hole and then re-install the pin.

The tuning peg function is very important to the enjoyment of the instrument, so fit these carefully. I have prepared the pegs beforehand and tuned them so they tap the same tone as the string the peg will anchor. The shoulder of the peg should be just 1/2" away from the side of the neck when the end of the pin is even with the far side of the peg box. However, since the peg will 'seat in', ream fit it so that the end is 0.15" short of coming to the far side. It will slip in deeper when peg dope is applied to the tuning peg and with use.

Ream each hole with frequent stops to clear the reamer flutes. Continually visually check the angle of the ream by looking from the end and from above. We want the ream (and thus the pegs) to be exactly 'square to the world'. While reaming, the line of the cut can easily wander, cutting an angled hole. Try and make the peg shafts on the small side to save the peg box for future reamings and to make the tuning pegs adjustment finer (less string length change per turn).