Revised 7/2009
...The reader will understand that the ground layer is applied to the bare wood surface, before the protective coats of varnish. Its purpose is to increase sound production, tone and to reduce the unwanted high frequency sound produced by the instrument.Note: no space for the text!
First a list of ingredints used in various formulas:
'A' Water Glass (Silicone Carbonate, from local drug store )
'B' Charcoal (Used Charcoal Brickets from charcoal barbeque)
'C' Ash of grape vine twigs
'D' Instrument making 'hide' glue (or 'hare' glue or fish bladder glue)
'E' Propolis in 190 proof alcohol solution.
'F' Diamond powder # 8,000 mesh (or possibly # 12,000 )
Next is a list of Ground formulas refered to earlier, and that I have used with some success...
...(or with which I have some experience or test results for)
'AA' I call my 'Strad Prep.' formula.
'BA' I call my 'Strad Prep. plus hide glue formula. ('glue/Strad)'
'CA' I call my 'Strad Prep. plus hide glue and Propolis formula. ('glue/Strad/Propolis')or('G/S/P')
'DA' I call my 'Strad Prep. plus hide glue, plus Propolis and diamond powder formula.('G/S/P/D')
'GS' or 'glue sizing' . (full strength violin making hide glue thinned with two equal parts water).('G-S')

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'AA' formula ready to use.
... To apply the 'AA' solution: Brush the solution on to the surface of the bare finished wood surface. {If you will be staining the wood surface with permanent water based stains, apply these first and let the surface dry before applying this ground solution.} You may apply one, two or three coats (allowing surface to dry between coats). The first coat will have the greatest effect, the second not as great, etc... In tests on wood strips, the single coating gave the best results.
...When dry, you may apply the first varnish coats without first sanding the surface (we want this layer left on after all). After varnishing in the usual manner, expose the surface to U.V. light (either in a U.V. box with special U.V. emitting bulbs, or by hanging in the direct natural sunlight) until the plate tones no longer increase in tap tone.
....At that point, the plates will be stable and should change but little in tap frequency over time with further U.V. exposure.
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Grape twigs being burned down into 'pot' ash. ('C')
... Somemakers have used a 'Glue Sizing' technique, I believe sometimes with good results. When I have used this technique, I mixed full strength violin making hide glue (like you would glue the back to the rib structure) and thinned this with two equal parts of hot water (thus 1/3 part mixed glue and 2/3 extra hot water).
... In my tests on wood samples, this simple ground coating gave the best response results on Maple wood (not so for the spruce). It would not probably have the best dampening characteristics, but should give good power and response, especially compared to doing no ground; I believe a number of fine fiddle makers use this technique.
...It does put the surface strongly in compression, and varnish bonds easily to this ground. Use it only on the outside surface of completed instruments; it of course would be applied hot (150 .F) and with a brush. Try and brush it evenly on to all the exterior surfaces...might be a good idea to preheat the wood to about 100 degrees (F.) to help get a smooth application.
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Cook in high pressure pressure cooker, 24 hrs.
...Used Charcol briquettes which I pulverized by hand in a mortise and pestal (hand grinder).
...The second solutiion is 'BA', this is the same as above except that I thinned the full strength hide glue with equal parts 'Strad Prep.' solution and hot water. Thus this formula is:
1/3 full strength hide glue mixture (like used to join back plate to ribs).
1/3 'Strad Prep.' solution.
1/3 hot water.
...This solution is mixed well and heated to 150 degrees F. and brushed on to prepared wood surfaces. I put this solution in a small plastic jar with lid and let it float in the hot water bath of my glue pot heater. Store in refrigerator when not in use.
...A single coat, evenly brushed on seems to work well.
...Apply this coat after violin body is completed and permanently glued together as it puts the wood surface in compression and might destort the plates should it be applied when they are separate.
...Diamond powder: # 8,000 screen; 5 carrot weight shown. This much was added to the 'DA' formula for varnishing one violin (in my first trial), my Opus #19 violin.
...Here is some ground up bee propolis in a tightly sealed glass jar filled with 190 proof alcohol. Over about three months, the alcohol will become a dark red liquid which shows yellow when a brushed on a piece of paper. At that point it is ready to add to ground formulas or other uses.
...The third solution is 'CA'. This is similar to the above formula.
This is mixed up as follows:
1/3 part full strength violin making glue (like used to glue back plate to ribs)
1/3 part Strad. Prep. formula (see 'Strad. Prep' information above)
1/3 part Propolis/alcohol solution (see directions on how to extract the Propolis in 190 proof alcohol on the right side of this page).
...This formulation is warmed to 150 degrees F. , and brushed on. Best to warm the wood surfaces to 100 degrees (f) or so and brush with the grain and as soothly as possible. Because we would ideally like to varnish directly over this coating without sanding first; that is, we want a full single coat even over all the surface.
...The bee's propolis (a natural type of wax) has a pleasant yellow color which is just right for violin making. I believe this adds the high frequency dampening qualities that we want for an improved tone on the completed instrument.
...When dry, varnish in the usual manner. Then expose the violin to U.V. light and finally natural sunlight until it no longer increases in tap tone. Ideally we want the top plate frequency to be 322 HZ and the back plate frequency 353.5 HZ when fully cured.
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...This formula is the same as the ('G/S/P') formula described above with the additon that a small amount of # 8,000 mesh diamond powder is stirred into the mixture.
...I have experimented on wood test strips with this formula and it definitely gives most encouraging results; both for response and tone. It seems to have a superior dampening of high frequency sound leaving the lower tones strong and with overtones in harmony.
I am just completing my first full instrument using this formulation ground and will report on results when they become available. Please look at H/P sound analyzer screens on page one to see acoustical results on the plates of my opus # 19 violin.
...I have to thank my friend Wade Hassell of Memphis violins (www.memphisviolins.com) for suggesting this idea and for sending me the diamond powder to experiment with..thanks Wade!
If you want to order some diamond powder ($5 for 5 ct. weight vial)(100 to 100,000 grit size) see:
http://www.lascodiamond.com/products/dmdpdr.htm
(actually, the finer screen size powder may be better)
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Propolis solution (190 proof alcohol which has absorbed bee's propolis) brushed on to top plate (spruce wood); excess is being wiped off at right.
Slowly over about three months, the alcohol draws out the propolis. This concentrated liquid is what is used in formulas.
...The Propolis used above was purchased from:
Draper's Super Bee Apiaries
RR 1, Box 97, Star Route 328
Millerton, PA 16936-9737
1-800-233-4373
Order # PR-008 1 pound Select Propolis Chunks